Pundit
Post by Gryffles on Nov 21, 2017 19:49:59 GMT 12
What side cutters, suitable for hook up wire, resistor leads etc, are you guys using?
Also what wire strippers do you use?
I don't need the best that cost a lot but some thing reliable and good for occasional hobby work. Had bad luck with wire strippers so far and just using budget cutters.
Thanks!
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Post by Graham on Nov 22, 2017 7:44:38 GMT 12
These are available from Jaycar for around $20 and work a treat. Combined side cutter and adjustable wire stripper. I wore out my expensive Snap On ones after 30 years as a mechanic ! 
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Post by Owen Y on Nov 22, 2017 8:02:45 GMT 12
I'd go with the above type strippers + regular sidecutters (for wire-cutting) + maybe smaller sharp sidecuttesr for finer insulated wire. My strippers broke & somehow (s/h I think) I acquired these cool Japanese strippers (not for v fine wire though)...  
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Pundit
Post by Gryffles on Nov 22, 2017 21:16:17 GMT 12
These are available from Jaycar for around $20 and work a treat. Combined side cutter and adjustable wire stripper. I wore out my expensive Snap On ones after 30 years as a mechanic !
I have some of them Graham but they don't like the Teflon covered wire I have. I'll give them another go though
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Pundit
Post by Gryffles on Nov 22, 2017 21:19:37 GMT 12
I'd go with the above type strippers + regular sidecutters (for wire-cutting) + maybe smaller sharp sidecuttesr for finer insulated wire. My strippers broke & somehow (s/h I think) I acquired these cool Japanese strippers (not for v fine wire though)... Yeah pretty cool alright Owen. I might buy a similar set of decent quality as my Jaycar ones Graham suggested don't like Teflon sheath. Maybe something from Goot or Knipex - should last a lifetime
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Post by Graham on Nov 22, 2017 21:52:43 GMT 12
Ahh yes Teflon insulated wire is a bugger to strip without nicking the wire. That's why I never use it !!
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Post by Owen Y on Nov 23, 2017 7:21:27 GMT 12
Teflon doesn't sound much good either some say - I haven't done a sonic test myself but avoid it where I can, for that reason. Sometimes occasionally use Teflon for sleeving bare wire. I see that RS sell both the above, but Jaycar are much cheaper (for the blue one).
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Post by guitardude on Nov 23, 2017 16:07:18 GMT 12
I reckon that Flat Nordost cable is about the worst thing to strip that i've ever come across. Serves me right about trying to save money by buying unterminated lengths !
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Post by michaelw on Nov 23, 2017 16:51:08 GMT 12
worse than kimber ?
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Post by Owen Y on Nov 23, 2017 19:01:59 GMT 12
Cardas is bad - bundle of individually enanel insulated conductors in Litz config. Remove the Teflon jacket is no problem, but you need to use their recommended 500 degF solder pot + solder flux to strip & tin them.
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Post by Owen Y on Nov 23, 2017 19:06:59 GMT 12
@qryffles - you can also get the following types of strippers, but I've never had much success with them. The bottom design looks simple & adjustable, but maybe I needed better quality ones. Let us know how you get on.  
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Post by Graham on Nov 23, 2017 19:56:26 GMT 12
I've used both of the above types in the automotive workshop with mixed results. Neither grip the wire when trying to strip the insulation off.
The little blue wonders from Jaycar are much easier to use as the jaws grip the wire and then the blades close to strip it.
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Pundit
Post by Gryffles on Nov 24, 2017 21:11:20 GMT 12
I got my teflon insulated wire cheap but didn't realise it was such a nuisance to strip. Won't be buying any more of it!
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Post by Owen Y on Nov 25, 2017 7:38:31 GMT 12
What type of (teflon sheathed) wire, for example? This Cardas wire is typical teflon sheathed wire - thin sheathing (& individually enamel coated Litz conductors). Tricky to strip, tricky to solder. 
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Pundit
Post by Gryffles on Nov 26, 2017 15:21:13 GMT 12
Silver plated copper with a PTFE sheath.
There is a seller on Ebay in the US that sells a heap of wire at good prices.
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Post by Owen Y on Nov 27, 2017 8:17:22 GMT 12
Maybe better to buy the wires without sheath (which usually sounds better also). If necessary, in certain locations, you can sheath them yourself - using cotton or even Teflon if you wish. Sometimes I use enamel-coated wire, which of course is insulated. Single strand, which is all you need inside chassis & in low single applics, makes life easier.
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Pundit
Post by Gryffles on Dec 10, 2017 21:51:06 GMT 12
Good idea re the bare wire Owen. Does cotton actually provide insulation though? Would it only be useful under a certain voltage?
I ended up getting some Xcelite side cutters from Mouser. Used them today replacing caps in my CDP. They are excellent!
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Post by Owen Y on Dec 10, 2017 22:39:08 GMT 12
Cotton - you wouldn't need to use sleeving on PSU wiring, but I have used cotton on bare signal wires. With PSU wiring I don't mind PVC sheathed wires, or heavy gauge bare copper for Gnd busses.
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Post by Owen Y on Dec 11, 2017 8:21:53 GMT 12
A bit more explanation of my usual approach: Sleeving or insulation can have affect on signal fidelity (as AC music signal travels on the surface of conductor & generates EM fields), so unsheathed bare signal wire is ideal for signal conductors. But sometimes you need to insulate & I think cotton provides this & they say it's more sonically 'benign' than plastics. Whereas PSU wiring in proximity to signal ccts is usually DC & arguably less sonically problematic- so regular plastic sheathed wire is OK. Regardless, I tend to use solid-core single strand for these areas. It's also easy to keep wiring looking tidy. For AC PSU wiring, OTOH, I usually use stranded plastic sheathed wire - because it comes in large gauges & can be twisted tightly (as AC wiring should be to minimise EM noise/hum, radiation. The exception being Ground busses, where large gauge solid copper is tidy & functional.
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Post by Owen Y on Dec 21, 2017 9:59:02 GMT 12
You can also get these type strippers, which can be simple & effective.... 
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Post by Owen Y on Jun 3, 2020 15:29:33 GMT 12
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Pundit
Post by paulsaints on Jun 3, 2020 17:23:16 GMT 12
Hi Owen - on these ones I know what all the bits are for except the "ISO 8-32, 10-24" holes. What are they for and how do you use this part of the tool? Thanks.
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Pundit
Post by Neil on Jun 3, 2020 18:14:45 GMT 12
My favourite strippers are these simple Klein ones. I have examples of all the others, but these are the best and the fastest by far. 
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Pundit
Post by Neil on Jun 3, 2020 18:16:26 GMT 12
I also use one of these for micro wires 
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Post by sadface on Jun 3, 2020 18:33:15 GMT 12
I have found these guys to be the nicest to use.  They are a little bit more expensive but I am yet to have them cut through into the wire like the other types shown in this thread.
I got mine on clearance when the Wairau Jaycar was moving.
Otherwise the same type is available under various labels. It looks like the Irwin is the exact same tool with a prettier rubber sleeve. ( I do love that Irwin colour set)
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Post by Owen Y on Jun 3, 2020 19:56:13 GMT 12
Hi paulsaints - as said above (22 Nov), I'm not so keen on those. 99% of the time, I find that these work best for me. (However, sadface's type are 'self adjusting'.).   For fine wires, maybe one like Neil's micro jobs.
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Member
Post by mijoh on Jun 13, 2020 0:12:44 GMT 12
What bit to drill a flat bottomed hole in Aluminium?
I need to mount a headphone socket on an 8 mm thick aluminium front plate and I am thinking of drilling a larger flat bottomed hole down to say 5 mm deep on the inside of the front plate, and then a smaller centred hole inside the larger one to attach the socket to. Some folks use wood working bits like a forstner or paddle and say they work in aluminium ok. What's your experience? Thanks.
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Post by Owen Y on Jun 13, 2020 11:44:53 GMT 12
Hi mijoh (I need to consult my resident engineer on this but)... Is the h/ph socket 1/4" or 3.5mm? Regardless, you are trying to get the chassis thickness down to 2.5 to 3mm right? Assuming that the fascia plate can be detached.... A (good quality) Forstner should be usable on aluminium (soft metal) - so yes, use plenty of lubricant/coolant, take your time, keep the tool clean. You could drill a small pilot hole first.
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Member
Post by mijoh on Jun 13, 2020 15:09:07 GMT 12
Thanks Owen, I appreciate your advice and second opinion of your resident engineer! A Forstner bit it will be.
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