Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2017 10:12:50 GMT 12
Never a problem in my old house now ultra sensitive to foot traffic, after having thoughts of murder towards the home-stay student from Japan for jumping tracks, my Linn Sondek needs to be moved from my Soul to Soul rack and onto the wall. Plenty of designs online and some amazing pricing to go with it, anyone any experience/recommendations for design and structure? Found this online - apologies if copyright - would think that triangulating the outriggers in this design back to the wall would provide a stiff enough structure? Plus plenty of spikes online but nobody in NZ? 
|
Post by Owen Y on Jul 29, 2017 10:55:00 GMT 12
Greetings & welcome, @mostlyvinyl.... It's been 15+yrs since I had an LP12 & I never had a wall-shelf, so I probably can't offer much, but my thoughts are.... - In UK, most walls are solid masonry, whereas ours are timber-framed mostly. However, floor-bounce might still be solved by one of these. - Usually, LP12 supports are of the 'light and rigid' variety & most of the wall shelf designs are sq tubular steel type, so I imagine that this type of design would be more reliably 'tried & true'. (Whereas the one pictured appears to be large-section steel(?), unusually. Also, a glass shelf (if that's what is pictured) would not be my choice with a Sondek (IMHO). As an aside, I've had success solving TT floor-bounce problems by using Mag-lev footers under the TT - not the primary intention of employing these, but a serendipitous side-effect. PS. On closer inspection, the one pictured might be wood-panel sheet, MDF or such? If so, the jointing with the wall-plate would be the most critical aspect, structurally.
|
Post by Owen Y on Jul 29, 2017 11:05:33 GMT 12
Further thoughts: A Sondek is 445mm wide, so if I was doing a TT wall-shelf for a NZ house (assuming timber framed), i would be looking for a design that had a back-frame/plate of at least 600+mm wide - in order to allow solid fixing to the wall studs, which are typically set out at 600mm centres. (Some walls have studs at 450mm crs, but mostly 600mm.) Otherwise, you would have to either: - find solid fixing to the horiz wall 'nogging' (typically at 800crs vertically). - or rely at least partly, on 'toggle' fixing to the thin Gib board.
|
Post by Owen Y on Jul 29, 2017 11:14:43 GMT 12
Of course, if you have an old 'villa', your house walls will likely have 1/2 inch thick Kauri board horiz 'sarking' all over the inside framing - providing reasonably solid fixing. (Sometimes this sarking is removed when people Gib-line the interior.)
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2017 11:23:33 GMT 12
Thanks Owen, would have to be into the nog with a fairly hefty bolted plate. Going to neighbours with a fully equipped wood shop and will post the outcome.
|
Post by Owen Y on Jul 29, 2017 11:37:17 GMT 12
OK - the wall nogs are usually at 1/3 height points (for typical 2.4m ht walls) - so horiz nogs will only be at eg. 800 & 1600mm height, as mentioned. And note also that th nogs (& studs) are only 45-50mm width of timber edge to screw into 
|
Post by colinf on Jul 29, 2017 13:11:25 GMT 12
You could always put a Vibraplane (or suchlike) isolation table under your Linn, if you can afford it. Also check out the products from Townshend Audio. One of my friends in Melbourne used two long steel rods screwed horizontally out of the wall and suspended his Linn from strong string hanging between the two rods. Apparently it worked very well.
AMR-iFi R&D
|
Post by sub on Jul 29, 2017 19:13:01 GMT 12
I tried a wall mounted shelf for my LP12 back in the 90s - made things worse as the timber framed wall had speakers near it on a poured concrete floor, and unknown to me the walls were picking up vibrations from the speakers! The speakers were large KEF C95s which with the right input could put out prodigious bass.
|
