Post by michaelw on Aug 3, 2017 22:07:17 GMT 12
no room on my rack for an outboard armpod
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Post by Owen Y on Aug 4, 2017 16:59:50 GMT 12
no room on my rack for an outboard armpod:( No problem..... Attach a small arm 'block' or 'board' to the rear - you will need a tonearm longer than the 345 however, 9.5+" long would work.
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Post by Owen Y on Aug 4, 2017 17:34:32 GMT 12
Actually, a 9" arm works too - eg. Rega. But not the big SME sliding baseplate with slotted hole.
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Post by michaelw on Aug 4, 2017 18:38:36 GMT 12
thanks for the spiffy diagram funny you mention rega ... the jarrah plinth was originally fitted with a rega arm. for arm 2 would probably got for something like a jelco ...
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Pundit
Post by beeman on Aug 5, 2017 3:58:36 GMT 12
I have owned many 103Rs in all there forms. I play them on a 1962 Denon idler drive turntable so I guess I tick all the boxes. Not fussed in there original form. Nuded better more open & refined, Uew iron wood bodied much much better, I had several carts in this body & loved it. ZU aluminium body even better & my last one ZU aluminum body with Soundsmith ruby cantilever & # 1 stylus which added up to a very sophisticated cartridge. They guy I bought it off rated it very close to the top end Koetsu which he retained. I love the fact something designed in the 1960s can still compete & beat product costing many times its value today. The difference is the research costs happened back then & that is what makes them such a bargain today. They may not be to your taste Guitardude but I would go head to head with any cartridge of similar value & be confident that you would be hard pressed to find better for the money
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Post by guitardude on Aug 7, 2017 11:11:28 GMT 12
sorry i'm late to this one, just had to get changed out of my Dressing gown and slippers...
Never heard a 103 with the body or stylus you describe beeman, but am a bit puzzled by your comments regarding value. A quick google shows the 103 at $449 USD, a soundsmith rebuild at $650 USD and a ZU body at ?
So that's not going to end up cheap is it ?
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Post by michaelw on Aug 7, 2017 12:05:53 GMT 12
that's silly money for a 103r.
grey prices are around $250usd/$351nzd.
even less for a std 103 - $190usd/$256nzd !
$650 for a rebuild is nuts too, you'd be better off buying a new cartridge for the same money.
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Post by Citroen on Sept 6, 2017 19:22:03 GMT 12
Early days, fine tuning but the midrange is all there and overall well refined, more detail sound over stock. I've been giving this cart a lot of airtime now for some weeks. And increasingly enjoying what it does. While if I swap it for the EMT I immediately notice an increase in refinement and finese (comparatively speaking) it nevertheless remains a very enjoyable cart. The meat is still on them bones! Only major downside is that it doesn't seem to track as well. Oh well, can't have everything.
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Post by Owen Y on Nov 29, 2017 9:30:01 GMT 12
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Post by Owen Y on Apr 12, 2018 13:46:47 GMT 12
Yet another body mod... denonaluminumbody.com, a small Canadian manufacturer, launches a VERY simple, carefully dimensioned, slip-on "cap" made from black anodised 6061 aluminium, that just slides over the top of the DL-103. The normal mounting screws/nut hold the whole thing together, onto the headshell. From an engineering standpoint, the height dimension must have been judged to either match exactly the height of the 103 lugs (in which case the plastic lugs will not compress & not be a tight hold) or more likely slightly less tall in order to slightly compress a tight fit on the plastic body & at same time tight pressure on the new hard aluminium! Tricky. VTA will need adjustment to suit of course. (The best I've heard a stock 103 is on a Rega RB tonearm (RB202), a match 'made in heaven' IMHO.) Currently on promotion at (USD?) $95 incl SS screws (down from $120). www.denonaluminumbody.com(You'll see from the 'reviews' that there is already one in NZ.)
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Post by michaelw on Apr 12, 2018 15:27:55 GMT 12
is it an optical illusion or is the azimuth off in the first photo...
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Post by jon on Apr 12, 2018 18:29:52 GMT 12
Yet another body mod... denonaluminumbody.com, a small Canadian manufacturer, launches a VERY simple, carefully dimensioned, slip-on "cap" made from black anodised 6061 aluminium, that just slides over the top of the DL-103. The normal mounting screws/nut hold the whole thing together, onto the headshell. From an engineering standpoint, the height dimension must have been judged to either match exactly the height of the 103 lugs (in which case the plastic lugs will not compress & not be a tight hold) or more likely slightly less tall in order to slightly compress a tight fit on the plastic body & at same time tight pressure on the new hard aluminium! Tricky. VTA will need adjustment to suit of course. (The best I've heard a stock 103 is on a Rega RB tonearm (RB202), a match 'made in heaven' IMHO.) Currently on promotion at (USD?) $95 incl SS screws (down from $120). www.denonaluminumbody.com(You'll see from the 'reviews' that there is already one in NZ.) I bought one... it's as good as my Midas. The fact that you do not have to nude the cartridge and the price make it a winner.
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Post by Citroen on Apr 17, 2018 16:06:49 GMT 12
Hmmm. My interest is peaked.
The only stock bodied 103 I have is a 103R Shibata I could try it on...
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Post by Owen Y on Oct 3, 2019 21:01:58 GMT 12
STEREOPHILE's Art Dudley reviews the latest (bronze) version of the MusiKraft after-market body for the DL-103. I don't especially care for the 'engineer-aesthetic' & it's not inexpensive, but I like the way this body housing design does not use epoxy resin and/or glue to secure the cartridge body - which, aside from any sonic effects, means that it is reversible, if you don't like the result or wish to try another body. US$659 for the basic, anodised aluminium 'shell' version.
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Post by andrewp on Oct 4, 2019 10:01:40 GMT 12
That looks "ok" but would be alot better with flames on the side of the body...!
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Post by michaelw on Oct 4, 2019 12:48:05 GMT 12
Not so far removed from those D'Agostino monstrosities I'll just take my 103 stock
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Pundit
Post by belbo on Oct 5, 2019 6:22:50 GMT 12
STEREOPHILE's Art Dudley reviews the latest (bronze) version of the MusiKraft after-market body for the DL-103. I don't especially care for the 'engineer-aesthetic' & it's not inexpensive, but I like the way this body housing design does not use epoxy resin and/or glue to secure the cartridge body - which, aside from any sonic effects, means that it is reversible, if you don't like the result or wish to try another body. US$659 for the basic, anodised aluminium 'shell' version. I like Art Dudley but I have the feeling he would be perfectly happy spending the rest of his career writing about the DL-103 and Altec speakers, nothing wrong with that of course. I just bought a DL-103R and I'm going to set it up soon. No experience with it so really curious.
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Post by sub on Oct 5, 2019 8:08:27 GMT 12
Having just got my Plinius 8150 back from the repair shop, can play LPs again, but while:my MM phono pre is also off being repaired, am only able to use an MC cart through the Plinius. Back in action with my DL103R which hasn’t seen play time since May 2018. Not as dynamic as my Ortofon 2M Black (have to wind the volume up to 12 o’clock), nor does it separate out the individual instruments with the same clarity. Mind you, that could be the MC phono section of the Plinius, which has no user adjustable settings or dip switches. Even so, a fine overall performance, making pleasurable music with strength in clarity of voices.
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Post by Citroen on Oct 5, 2019 11:00:21 GMT 12
Wonder what your 8150 is set to as it has factory 180, 470, 2200 options. Probably the 470 default.
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Post by Owen Y on Oct 5, 2019 11:04:49 GMT 12
In that case, 180 ohms would be my starting suggestion for the 103R.
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Post by michaelw on Oct 5, 2019 11:19:00 GMT 12
get the soldering iron out
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Post by Citroen on Oct 5, 2019 12:02:55 GMT 12
Can't recall if my 103r is set at 200 or 400
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Post by sub on Oct 5, 2019 12:56:30 GMT 12
Wish I’d known that before, as I could have asked the tech who repaired it to adjust the setting. (As an aside, I thought it would be an easy fix to replace a dead R op amp, but the op amp was fine, it appears the R channel phono was leaking DC, requiring removal of top board and replacement of some parts.)
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Post by Citroen on Oct 5, 2019 13:42:17 GMT 12
Probably a moot point now, but the manual shows what resistors go where. You could have a look to see what it's set at if you really wanted to know I suppose.
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Post by michaelw on Oct 5, 2019 16:02:39 GMT 12
did the 8150 come with a bag of resistors ? imho the phono stage of the 8200 was a big upgrade over the 8150. fixed 47k load, switchable gain, simple
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Post by Citroen on Oct 5, 2019 16:43:01 GMT 12
I bought my 8150 secondhand but it still had the spare bits to convert it to MM or to change loads Apparently, I prefer 400 ohms to either 200 (or less), or 1000 or more with my 103R, in my system.
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