Pundit
Post by simonb on Nov 19, 2019 16:56:59 GMT 12
I am using Kimber 4TC with an added earth wire down the middle and then sheathed with big diameter heatshrink. I had some short lengths of this cable that were not much good for anything else and this is a 'known' DIY power cable. Did this some years ago now so don't remember the differences but there were some. Actually I think there is an easy argument for the difference power cables make if you remember what goes into your gear through it's "linear" power supply is not a nice smooth sinewave. Linear power supplies are better thought of as "switchmode" powersupplies where the switching frequency is 50Hz. Even low power stuff draw spiky peak currents (people with inductors in their power supplies are somewhat exempt... Class A amps may have a more spread out current draw too...? ) So in my book, power cables may contribute to sound quality via filtering and reduced radiation patterns. And there is probably stuff going on with micro mechanical movement between strands due to magnetic field interaction (particularly with peaky currents).
Simon Brown
Design Build Listen Ltd,
Makers of The Wand Analogue Products
Distributor of Hana Cartridges
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Pundit
Post by Dom on Nov 20, 2019 6:46:47 GMT 12
I favour mostly the supplied cables but my power amps each use a bespoke cable made by RuleConnect of this parish. My preamp has an ETI eXpress cable. Everything goes through my Belkin AVPure power conditioner. It sounds nice.
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Pundit
Post by Neil on Dec 2, 2019 15:48:29 GMT 12
I use a few different types, stock standard for the pre and power, a Kondo one for my dac and Supra from my power conditioners to the wall. I also have a Belden 19364 that I made up, and a Kimber 4TC much like Simon describes. TBH I don't think I hear any difference, but maybe I do. Who would know...
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Post by Citroen on Dec 2, 2019 17:22:17 GMT 12
I must admit that I've not used any audiophile power cables.
But my brain just can't rationalize that they would make any difference...
So even if I tried some, my logical brain would probably deny it!
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Post by Owen Y on Dec 2, 2019 19:59:25 GMT 12
The problem I have with 'special' power cables is that I've heard some that make a HUGE sonic change - disarmingly so. Personally, I do not like cables that can change the sound like an active device. My philosophy is that power cables should do the things that you want (allow more dynamic power through, cut RF/EMF noise & interference, etc), without otherwise 'actively' changing the sound. Mains power is AC (50Hz) , in a similar way that music signal is also AC, so the system is affected in a sonially similar way by the power cable construction. My experience is that, if say Cardas cable is used as a power cord, you'll hear a Cardas sound signature. Similarly with Kimber cable. But don't take my (or anyone's) word for it, try yourselves. IMHO & YMMV
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Post by andrewp on Dec 2, 2019 20:53:55 GMT 12
Ive got a couple of flash harry leads with flasher than flash Furutech plugs if anyone wants to re home them. Got them for some gear that has been sold
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Pundit
Post by harvey on Dec 2, 2019 21:35:34 GMT 12
I've got an MIT power cord plugged into an Antipodes power board running most of my gear. Swapping out the MIT with a stock lead you don't have to try hard to hear the difference.
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Post by Owen Y on Dec 3, 2019 7:54:37 GMT 12
harvey - did you ever use MIT as spkr cable? And did the MIT power cord result in a similar MIT sonic signature?
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Pundit
Post by harvey on Dec 3, 2019 18:10:23 GMT 12
Hi Owen, Kimber Kable for speaker and interconnects so can't comment on the MIT house sound. It was I while ago I swapped it for comparison but I recall the music sounded thin and lifeless in comparison (sorry no fancy hifi analogies here 😉).
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2019 13:14:08 GMT 12
Great thread for someone tentatively entering into the world of aftermarket cables. Recently took delivery of an Accuphase 40th Annv. power cable (from a dubious source) and much to my surprise, noticed an immediate difference - it wasn’t unlike someone had thrown a thick blanket over my speakers. How? I couldn’t even begin to imagine. Have worked with sparkies in the past - domestic and commercial - that have laughed at the very idea there could be any discernible, audible difference. Further questioned them on cable directionality and the looks on their faces was just priceless. More recently though, worked with an electrical engineer with a slight interest in audio who suggested (as I think has been mentioned earlier in the thread) that some benefit could be had from using machinery cable and fittings with larger surface area and firmer connections... so I’m about to give it a shot. Will report back...
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Post by Owen Y on Dec 5, 2019 13:36:13 GMT 12
@johnnyheathen - did you say that a blanket fell over your speaker? Or a blanket was removed, upon swapping in the Accuphase power cord?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2019 16:59:46 GMT 12
Owen Y - it was all in my head. I was sure it sounded wooly -muffled even - after introducing the aftermarket cable but no. Played a side, swapped out to the original kettle cord, played the same side again. No difference. Plugged the huge, fat snake thing back so at least I look the part... 😉 Still to make up my own. Parts are there but suddenly feels less urgent. 😂
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Pundit
Post by LinnBoy on Mar 2, 2020 19:55:19 GMT 12
Anyone have any experience with these products? UK based, they also have AUS fittings. Quite a broad range of things hifi and vinyl related. I am looking to make and replace all of my mains cables. www.mcru.co.uk/product-category/mains-products/mains-cables/
I am a non-recovering audioholic, and Ivor is my higher power.
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Post by Citroen on Mar 2, 2020 21:56:49 GMT 12
I've bought vinyl from them a few times, a while ago.
All excellent great sounding versions. Don't recall ever having any problems with them, re: shipping or packaging.
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Post by Owen Y on Mar 3, 2020 8:33:00 GMT 12
I am looking to make and replace all of my mains cables. Are you able/willing to try making your own first?
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Pundit
Post by LinnBoy on Mar 3, 2020 10:11:13 GMT 12
I am looking to make and replace all of my mains cables. Are you able/willing to try making your own first? I am unlikely to buy them made up. Yep, I will be making about 10, I think, and probably also a power block. Might even replace the wall sockets for more beefy, switchless ones. I am fortunate, behind my main system are six wall sockets, which is a pretty good start.
I am a non-recovering audioholic, and Ivor is my higher power.
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Post by Owen Y on Mar 3, 2020 11:25:14 GMT 12
OK, if you have those sockets on multiple circuits, even better - I keep the digital stuff as remote as poss, in different circuits from the analogue devices, esp the low signal ones. (That's just my approach.) If you haven't already done so, map out your room circuits to the main distribution board circuit breakers. At the devices end, I've offered my opinion here before - rather than jump into costly power cords, try first just using '15A' 'appliance' cord (instead of the usual 10A rated cords. That's what I've always had success with, upgrade-wise. Yes, by all means try unswitched sockets & choose your 3-pin plugs carefully to minimise internal mechanical jointed designs. (As said, just IMHO & what I've had success with. But OTOH if you're living in the Linn-Naim universe, the sonic rulebook may read differently  )
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Post by michaelw on Mar 3, 2020 14:38:38 GMT 12
ditto on trying a 15A cord forst, those six wall sockets are probably a single circuit split to six ways. 
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Member
Post by Pete Bronlund on Feb 27, 2022 3:51:19 GMT 12
Slowly changing all my audio power leads to the Supra LORAD 3X1.5 BLUE B100. As an electrician I'm aware of leakage from cables. And with the tangle of cables behind my cabinet I decided to do something about it. Using a leakage sensor tool it shows no leakage from the Supra cables.Unlike the usual flex. Can't comment on any difference in sound though. supracables.co.nz/main-cablesApologies as this is a post from a couple years back but I'd really appreciate to hear an explanation for this "leakage" exhibited by standard flex power cables. Is it a current leakage & with what test instrument are you using please? Is it a case of measuring various parameters as insulation resistance over time and capacitance effects? It's a very interesting issue & something i have not seen as what could be an issue in general installations of multiple equipment.
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Pundit
Post by neilsan on Feb 27, 2022 19:58:53 GMT 12
Pete, I'm an electrician and have an electronic sensing device that picks up live cables, not that I rely on it totally! Beeps and flashes a light.
I'll have to look into how it works now. It'll pick up the phase in TPS and flexes.
I'm using Supra flex which is shielded and has an earth wire/drain that's only connected at the plug end. My sensing device doesn't pick it up when the cable is live.
I've replaced all my cables with the Supra now. Can't say I heard any difference though. But I like the idea of the shielding around my signal cables as I've seen induced voltage in cabling at work.
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Pundit
Post by neilsan on Mar 1, 2022 8:07:51 GMT 12
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Pundit
Post by Gryffles on Sept 11, 2022 1:31:21 GMT 12
For the most part I previously had no interest in trying power cables and some of that was due to the fact that there was always something more important to spend $$ on.
Over the last coupoe of weeks I built a couple of power cables using the DIY Helix Image recipe. There was no wondering if they had any effect as it was very obvious and I was frankly shocked. They aren't the cheapest to make at approx $300 each in parts but well worth it indeed!
I used the recipe he recommends with mil spec wire, neotech in teflon tubes etc etc
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Pundit
Post by peter0c on Sept 11, 2022 12:00:18 GMT 12
That power cables might make a difference is easily proved by using a cheap but electrically certified cable for no more than one minute. I did this once by putting a computer CRT monitor cable on a relatively low powered amp. It sounded truly awful. I otherwise use Supra. This Swedish company is mostly involved in making electrical fittings for hospitals and their cables are affordable. The problem is that if cables do make a difference (particularly interconnects), then it can only be that one or both / all of the two / all under comparison are acting as a filter. Shock horror, this might be a good thing on certain hifi combinations and explain our contrary opinions.
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Member
Post by Weka on Sept 11, 2022 19:59:03 GMT 12
For the most part I previously had no interest in trying power cables and some of that was due to the fact that there was always something more important to spend $$ on. Over the last coupoe of weeks I built a couple of power cables using the DIY Helix Image recipe. There was no wondering if they had any effect as it was very obvious and I was frankly shocked. They aren't the cheapest to make at approx $300 each in parts but well worth it indeed! I used the recipe he recommends with mil spec wire, neotech in teflon tubes etc etc I've been keen to try out that design as well but have been unable to find any affordable AU/NZ compliant plugs that will accommodate large wire gauges. What did you use?
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Pundit
Post by neilsan on Sept 11, 2022 20:20:09 GMT 12
I think Supra make a large entry IEC socket.
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Member
Post by Weka on Sept 11, 2022 20:29:45 GMT 12
The IEC C15 cord socket is no problem, it's finding an affordable AU/NZ audio grade 3 pin plug that is.
I refuse to pay $160.00 for a Furutech or IsoTek plug, which seems to be all that's available here in NZ.
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Post by jon on Sept 12, 2022 9:11:12 GMT 12
I just use standard kettle leads. Figuring I have time to invest in posh power cables once I've ironed out my system a bit more... When I do I will go here: www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/diycables.htmlIt has two general articles (mains cables and earth) along with an article on the Hydra which is now well out of date as the Micromark Multi-Way Mains Plug is no longer available.
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Pundit
Post by harvey on Sept 12, 2022 9:21:41 GMT 12
Not sure if it qualifies as audio grade but PDL56P310 will work with 2.5mm cables if you use a longer scew in the retaining clamp. Remove the outer ring and paint the top if you want something less industrial looking. 
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Member
Post by Weka on Sept 12, 2022 11:08:09 GMT 12
Yes, I've used a similar plug in the past - a GWR GEN3 10A with the retaining ring lip machined down, but you still can't get 2 of them side-by-side in a double power socket.  I've made contact with the manufacturer of an AU/NZ plug that Shunyata, Voodoo & Gigawatt cables appear to use. Currently negotiating MOQ and pricing, so we'll see what comes of that.
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Pundit
Post by Gryffles on Sept 5, 2023 17:15:49 GMT 12
Yes, I've used a similar plug in the past - a GWR GEN3 10A with the retaining ring lip machined down, but you still can't get 2 of them side-by-side in a double power socket. I've made contact with the manufacturer of an AU/NZ plug that Shunyata, Voodoo & Gigawatt cables appear to use. Currently negotiating MOQ and pricing, so we'll see what comes of that. I wouldn't worry about having a compliant plug to much as the power lead will be illegal anyway.
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