Post by Owen Y on Feb 6, 2019 9:36:27 GMT 12
After I was given my SP10/2 I looked into isolators as one of the feet on the 10 is faulty. Bought the Extra Large Bright Star IsoNodes, screwed the 10's feet right in and don't have any trouble with feedback now.Also used them under my 401 which also tightened up the bass. Hi neilsan - does your SP-10 have a custom-type plinth base? In wood?
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Post by michaelw on Feb 6, 2019 10:28:51 GMT 12
i was about to ask a similar Q. what feet on your sp10 neilsan ? the little pads on the bottom of the motor cover ? my sp10 sits on two layers of black diamond cones
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 6, 2019 11:20:00 GMT 12
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Pundit
Post by neilsan on Feb 6, 2019 20:43:36 GMT 12
SL1000. Mk2. Sorry should have said. The feet screw in and out for adjusting. I've screwed them all in and stuck the isonodes under them. Neil
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 6, 2019 21:17:46 GMT 12
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 7, 2019 20:52:00 GMT 12
The Mag-lev footers arrived - 16 days from Shenzhen, China. Finish is VG-Ex. The bottom portion is actually 2 parts which screw together (concealed by the grooving). The bottoms have self-adhesive felt pads, which allow the footer to rock a little sideways - I may remove this, so that they sit flat.
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 10, 2019 19:42:52 GMT 12
A CAD 'model' of the plinth + turntable.....
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 10, 2019 19:46:21 GMT 12
Had some time today to rough out the plywood sheets - 5 layers x 17.5mm = 87.5mm total thickness.
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Pundit
Post by SL1210 on Feb 12, 2019 1:25:11 GMT 12
Just a random idea: Have you thought of giving the sheets a good soaking in Tung Oil? It gives a hardness and also looks good.
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 12, 2019 8:08:51 GMT 12
Hi SL1210 - I've never tried Tung Oil actually, but I believe that it's a nice, hard-drying traditional oil finish. I'm going for something a bit more 'contemporary', a white 'blonded' wood look, something like this rack I knocked together hastily a few years back.... I think it should work nicely with the silver-black SP-10. (In the 3D model above, the mag-lev feet are hidden inside the 'black' blocks.)
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 12, 2019 8:36:01 GMT 12
This might give a more accurate impression....
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Pundit
Post by SL1210 on Feb 14, 2019 19:36:13 GMT 12
That closeup shows a lovely texture, and I can see why you would want to keep it at that. Back on the subject of footers I have used Isonoe Footers in the past. They are essentially 4 little trampolines and work very well. It seems though that the maglev idea must be tried. I am definitely going to give them a go. I am sure you are on the right track with them. In concept a high-end turntable, any turntable actually, should strive for good speed and freedom from vibration. Easier said than done though! Massive plinth, damping material, and mag-lev footers should see you through. Given that you are starting with a direct drive and a known good one at that will I am sure be a very good end result.
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 15, 2019 12:55:19 GMT 12
A mock-up on the plywood cuts, with 12" & 10" tonearms. First reaction to seeing the plywood cuts was that it is BIG - but looking at the tonearm brief (2 arms, 12" arm/s), it can't be any smaller I think.
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Post by michaelw on Feb 15, 2019 14:53:31 GMT 12
looks good !
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 15, 2019 19:41:22 GMT 12
Tomorrow is Cutting Day on the CNC router. For interest, this is an exploded model of the cut & assembled plinth (with some small changes)....
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Pundit
Post by SL1210 on Feb 16, 2019 21:00:36 GMT 12
Tomorrow is Cutting Day on the CNC router. For interest, this is an exploded model of the cut & assembled plinth (with some small changes).... Is the design for the lower portion taken from a Roman Amphitheater?
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 17, 2019 15:24:07 GMT 12
Hi SL1210 - good thinking! The circular shaping is my thinking about how best to address rotational torque of the SP-10 DD mtr (see my 29 Jan post above). Also, the upper layers are reduced in mass, getting progressively more solid at the bottom, which will have a 9-12kg stainless steel baseplate / 'noise sink' (see my 1Feb post above).
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 18, 2019 14:54:12 GMT 12
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 19, 2019 15:25:26 GMT 12
OK, first problem encountered: Kenwood L-07D tonearm:Having never owned a Kenwood L-07D TT, I didn't spot that the Arm Height vernier wheel might be lower than the tonearm's mounting surface - ie the plinth top. (On the L-07D the winding wheel overhangs the side of the L-07D TT, in fresh air - see below.) The problem with our plinth now, is that the wheel hits the top of the plinth - we need a spacer of 4.5mm min. to raise the tonearm base. However, this could mean potential problems with the tonearm being too high above the platter mat - even for tall cartridges. Cartridge spacers (up to 6mm) would then be needed under the headshell. Maybe a serious decision is required....
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Post by Graham on Feb 19, 2019 15:55:20 GMT 12
How about machining a depression in the top of the plinth to accommodate the adjusting wheel.
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Post by michaelw on Feb 19, 2019 16:07:44 GMT 12
should be relatively easy to do with your fancy router ?
is the kenwood a 9in arm ?
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 19, 2019 20:33:37 GMT 12
Graham - thanks yes, indeed, that's what we'll do I think. michaelw - the Kenwood arm Eff Length is specified as 245mm (ie 9.65", same as FR64) - but I set it up at 250mm. Other options: 1) headshell spacers which can/should be avoided. 2) chopping ~19mm off the RHS of the plinth, which would be OK, reducing plinth size a bit too, except that we already have machined-out internal cavities. An aside....(warning, more engineering porn): My resident 'engineer' lasercut some prototype 110 diam. spacer rings at work, in acrylic (as below) - which we won't use, but will be useful as templates to check the Kenwood hole spacings (which I have discovered are not EXACTLY at 90deg bolt circle spacings(!) - Problem No.2 to solve ) Poor video sorry, probably taken through safety shield I expect.)
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 19, 2019 21:03:57 GMT 12
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Post by michaelw on Feb 19, 2019 21:19:18 GMT 12
looking good !
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Member
Post by snewt on Feb 21, 2019 14:17:06 GMT 12
It's probably a little late for this suggestion, but have you considered swapping the arms around? I think this works better. The plinth doesn't need to be so wide (just a little deeper) and you can have the winder hanging over at the rear. Sorry if this puts the cat amongst the pigeons...
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 21, 2019 20:35:52 GMT 12
Hi snewt - yes that's a good suggestion. But I'd like to have the plinth flexible enough to use other tonearms too, incl. 2 x 12" tonearms if required. And as mentioned earlier above, I don't mind the 'plinth' being a little wider on the LHS with the SP-10 sitting visually more centred. I would have simply made the plinth ~19mm less wide on the RHS, if I'd spotted the L-07D winder issue earlier! How does the Rega arm (with 3rd party c'weight?) sound, compared with say the Apparition?
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 21, 2019 20:48:02 GMT 12
The offending arm-height winder wheel .... (With 3.6mm Black acrylic spacer temporarily fitted.)
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Post by Graham on Feb 21, 2019 20:48:39 GMT 12
If you can go in horizontally in line with the adjusting wheel position with a 50 - 60mm cutting drum it will make a very neat radiused depression to clear the wheel and look like you always intended it to be there !
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Post by Owen Y on Feb 25, 2019 19:28:18 GMT 12
Yes, good thinking Graham. We weighed up that option but with plywood, I'll probably not go with a radiused pocket because of the glue-lines & just do a shallow flat pocket...
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Post by cooksferry on Feb 26, 2019 7:36:40 GMT 12
That's a nice technical looking arm Owen. I take it the rod with the markings near the arm rest is the vernier scale? How much vertical travel do you get with the arm? And final question, can you adjust on the fly?
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